With regrds to engineering, and Motorsport engineering at that, there is a reason the majority of F1 teams and major motorsport teams are based over here.
With regrd to the CSS its supposed to be a great system and the guys in the states are raving about it. price seems reasonable, I would certainly consider a hone at minimum and checking the bores after wards as pressing anything in to support the sleeves could have a small effect on ovality of the bores. I would consider this on a B20 build for sure.
Rich could you PM me the detail of the machine shop as I would ike to enquire about this, My machinest doesnt have a 5 axis machine so cant do this which is a shame.
Tuning is a MIndfield and there are plety of people in this country who offer the service. As with any business you will here good and bad stories from people and so fourth just ask people who have been tuned by the person you want to use and get there feedback. Dont just assume that because a certai tuner has Big power figures he is beter than an another, dynos read very very differently and are only a data aquistion tool.
The tuning price can come down to a few things, what software is used, what is tuned exactly, as adjusting cam gears for example can take quite a fair bit of time and will more than likely be on top of the quoted price, Not all companies charge VAT as not all companies are vat registered.
I have friends/customers who have had cars tuned by just about every Honda tuner in this country. Different tuners will have a different style and approach to tuning.
A tuners job can be hard as sometimes people turn up cars that are just plain nasty, they have been ill assembled and you just dont want to attempt to tune it as you know there are going to be issues. When a car goes wrong the instant assumption is that its the tuers fault when it can be any number of things.
Software choice is also something that can lead you to a tuner. Not all tuners will tune your desired software and this can have a large impact on the price,
Hondata is generally staright forward plug and play but you pay the price for it.
Neptune is superb, Ive had some small glitches with it but the back up from HR tuning has been superb and the software is constantly getting better but the latest updates have been awesome and ive had some great results with this.
eCtune ive heard lots of issue and i went neptune in the end (Romain actually pointed me in that direction ;-)
Crome is dependant on a few things, there are 4 versions of crome, 1, the free version is downloadable to anybody, it doesnt have datalogging and can be a tad glitchy. 2, Crome Pro like number 1 but with datalogging and a test version of Gold. 3, Crome Dealer, this is the genuine Dealer version of the software that is designed for the dealers and does everything its supposed to, its been updated again lately and is actually very good for the money. 4, Crome GOLD this is a kind of add on for crome dealer and has some good features and ive seen some serious cars out there tuned on it.
AEM EMS, The main hardware and software is apparently Gems (uk based) its great and does some seriously good stuff but its expensive.
Other things to remember as well are backup from your tuner, if something goes wrong can you get a copy of the final tune? speak to people that have had the cars tuned by the tuner you want to use.
Our usual prices for tuning are
£150 for NA Road Tune
£200 for Boosted Road Tune
£300 for NA Dyno tune (+£50 if you want cam gear adjustment)
£350 for Boosted Dyno tune (+£50 for cam gear or Boost controller set up)
+ licence fee if using Neptune.
Things to remember as people very often forget or dont understand A tune is only as good as the Spec on the car, If you change something, anything relating to the motor/build it can drastically change the tune, different sensors can be calibrated differently and this can change settings in the tune, different parts can chage the characteristics of a tune as well, if unsure ask the tuner.
Tuning is purely a case of interpreting data and making the correct adjustments to suit.
Many things can chage the readings a dyno gives, for example tyre type, balance, pressure & size, Brake friction, gearbox friction etc all can make a huge difference to the readings, a car with a stciky caliper, mild wheel buckle or slightly out of balance tyre can give a rough looking graph, or a power reading issue.
Gearboxes are a pain in the arse, some are just tighter than others, some have nice lubricant some dont, these can make a difference, electrical load on the engine also makes a difference, for example, on the dyno I use I can hold a steadystate point on the dyno and look at a realtime power/torque figure and by turning the heater on i can watch the power drop slightly due the extra load the alternator puts on the engine.
Simply put when going to a tuner make sure he has the best chance of tuning your car by presenting it in a worthy state. clean oil and filter, fresh gearbox oil a clean and tidy work area for the operator helps make sure there are no leaks or issue, and if there are tell the Tuner before he starts so he can asses the situation.
This isnt just for me as a tuner but any tuner.
bit of a longer post than i thought but gives people an idea of what to look for.
Scotts Time is very Impressive and I was the first to congratulate him on taking my record, there is certaInly more to come from the car
Although I doubt he has only 220bhp the weight/power/terminal speed and time dont match.
His wheel horsepower is 198 iIRC so unless his gearbox has 10% losses he has circa 235bhp from my calculations not 220bhp, going by the average 17% losses.
Dyno's measure power out put from the wheels, a preset calculation is then done to work out Flywheel horsepower, that doesnt take into consideration wear/tear on a gearbox, sticking brakes slipping clutch etc Also strapping a car down to a chassis dyno also has a huge affect on the losses as well.
When i tuned the engine it made 237bhp by the owner before Scott.
I am not taking anything away from Scott at all, he did very well, I just dont agree with the supposed low Power.
Scotts is the First B20 I ve seen thats shown potential for a low 12 or possibly a high 11 Good luck to him.
It also proves what NA Honda's are doing now.
Scot is only the 3rd B series NA in the 12's that we know of.
I like the Comptech manifolds, i ran 1 on my old B18 for a good year, i hen changed to a B20 and had a 2.5" collector fitted to it, it ran me to 223bhp no probs, I sold it to my mate Nick who is still using it on his B20.
It was a crazy Week end, I was actually lined up straight behind Guy so saw his whole run, The car hooked up incredibly well and the run looked smooth, about 3/4's up the car looked to be pulling slightly to 1 side, but guy kept in on the straight. Simple fact is Straight off the trailer no practice runs it went out for an 9.4 its pretty special that, I spoke to Guy a few times over the day and he was spot on and helpful.
We ran a 11.0 2nd run of the day whilst setting up our new EHM revised gearcables, however as the day got warmer this affected the cars, we ran 11.1 in both qualifiers, & 11.1 in all the Eliminations, We were the fastest 2nd Eliminator and thus got the Bye run to the final,
We went against Andy Nichols in the Final, in his 700+whp MG, Simple fact is he was quicker, His reaction was litterally twice as fast as mine and I missed 3rd due to a sticky throttle not allowing a clean 3rd gear change, regardless of the miss shift i still wouldnt have beaten Andy,
We won the prize for Fastest NA ET, and overall Runner UP.