Zoaib

Long Term Contributor
  • Content count

    1,952
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

158 Excellent

About Zoaib

  • Rank
    Formerly Z786
  • Birthday 06/22/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender Not Telling
  • Location Hounslow, West London
  • Car EG3

Recent Profile Visitors

12,026 profile views
  1. EG3 Starting problems

    try changing the fuel filter, very easy job.   its near the rear left wheel and the door sill, theres a plastic flap on the underside of the car, you will find the fuel filter in there.   any in-line fuel filter will do which has the correct diameter ends. it looks like this:     I would also take off the air filter housing and get to the carbs, and clean them thoroughly with Carb cleaner ... google the procedure, you dont want your car not starting from flooding the carbs with cleaner...       
  2. 98 spec master cylinder and servo bolt on ?

    they look much  better than drums, but you will need the correct prop valve to adjust brake bias otherwise its not too effective. 
  3. 98 spec master cylinder and servo bolt on ?

    if your not going to upgrade the prop valve for the rear braking bias, you may aswel keep the drums. braking power is more.    even handbrake power is better with drums imo..
  4. Post your turbo setup

    Noice...  
  5. Into an EG * Hatch *- Very Straight forward.   back side is a straight swap. the seat part is a little more work. swap the fabric from the dc2 seat onto the EG, cable tie the fabric to the hooks under the foam.  if you want u can trim the foam a  little to not make the dc2 fabric stretch as much.  job done.    if you want a detailed DIY, search this forum, or use google and you'll definitely find it on another forum. 
  6. Would this work? (Not mechanically clever lol)

    if you do put an aftermarket, in-your-face, as big as a dinner plate Rev gauge in your civic, it may ruin it.  but its your car, whatever makes you happy.... 
  7. New on here-shout out to Morgandan and rjf

    Using 2 user IDs and perhaps didnt log out when you welcomed yourself??    
  8. Would this work? (Not mechanically clever lol)

    you dont have to take the complete dash out If i remember correctly. just the bezel, google up how to remove it. 2 scews iirc then the clock is held in by some screws.. pull out, replace with plug and play eg4/5/6 dials. job done.    
  9. Plug gap, why .044?

    at 1000th of an inch of a difference, I really dont think there will be any changes to how the spark plug performs at all...  
  10. TDI North vs Eurospec

  11. Would this work? (Not mechanically clever lol)

    you will need to manually wire it in which is fairly straightforward  But its such a messed up thing to do?   If you really want a tachometer, just get EG4/5/6 dials... they are plug and play with tachometers and keep the car oem . 
  12. Honda civic EG turbo??

    also its just a d16z6, if they go pop its like 100pounds for a new one. 
  13. Inline Fuel Pumps

    Swapping tanks is easy, essentially once you jack up the car, Partially undo the 2 fuel tank strapscarefully lower tank slightly and undo the jubilee clips (most likely corroded), between fuel filler pipe and tankUndo the fuel lines going out of the tank from under the rear bench of the carUndo the vaccum hose into tankundo the fuel drain plug and use a funnel to drain fuel into Jerry cansUndo straps and remove tank.  Swap in a new tank, Job done.    If you want the new lines to run outside of the car, I advise you clamp them onto the existing lines under the plastic guard. then run them through the small opening from passenger side into the back of the engine bay and route to the fuel rail.  It can be done safely but is a fiddly job.   
  14. Inline Fuel Pumps

    I've done this, as well as wilsonic for EG3's with Bswaps. You can find info on my build, as well as wilsonics. I ended up swapping to a standard (non-carb) tank, due a number of reasons, see my build: http://www.civiclife.net/board/topic/104801-zoaibs-b18-eg/?page=6 Off the top of my head though: 1) noise- i had my fuel pump mounted in engine bay- sounded like a bee hive even with rubber sleeves around the pump.  2) reliabilty- inline pumps are good for pushing fuel and not 'pulling', so my set up wasn't ideal. I would get air in the lines from time to time and it would cause issues 3) risk- looking back, I dont know why i didnt change tanks sooner. i had small fuel leaks all the time due to the joins in my plumping.. near a hot exhaust and engine- risk of fire.  I initially thought I should mount it under the car and nearer to the tank, but I changed my mind when i found out how much easier a standard tank would be.  BUT didnt change the fuel lines - thats a complete mission with lowering the subframe and what not.  I run high pressure thick rubber (hard and not too flexible type) of hose, direct from fuel filter next to the tank, all the way to the fuel rail, and the same for the return.  Theres minimal joins and reducers in the system, and its simple, easier, you can still run the lines on the underside of the car and attach them safely..       
  15. My 87 Civic GT

    Wow.