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Electrical load detector

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#1
Beau23

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gettin this as an ecu fault can anyone shed some light on how I go about fixing this? will it affect my engine at all? cheers
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#2
JDMJut

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Have your ECU socketed and turn it off :)

Are you using a JDM ECU in a UK car ?

#3
ej2coupe

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Cause by a bad earth connection somewere, you have 3 on your engine, one on the rocker, on the gearbox and a few wires bolted to the thermostat housing, check and clean them all.

#4
H22_Dan..

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Posted Image

This is a photo of the fuse box under the hood, near the battery. The red squared in area is what is referred to as the ELD, or Electrical Load Detector, for our car. The ELD is essentially a current transformer that monitors the amount of current draw the car is pulling from the battery. This amount varies from time to time depending on what you have turned on (various electrical devices). The ELD will output .1 - 4.8 volts to the ECU. This reference voltage is what tells the ECU to increase or decrease the field strength in the alternator, which in turn bumps up the output of the alternator.

I have recently performed a test on my charging system, because I was / am having problems with my amps cutting out. I have traced it to the system voltage not being high enough - which is causing the battery to be strained. Essentially my battery is shot.

Back to the subject at hand though. The ELD. Since all aftermarket electrical feeds are pretty much tapped off of the positive terminal of the battery, the current path is not flowing through the ELD. What does this do? All of the amplifiers, LCD monitors, and pretty much anything else that isn't fed through the factory wiring of the car draw a lot of current.
Since the ELD isn't detecting any additional current draw from the battery, it is going to keep the alternator's output at minimum (12.3 volts) - just enough to keep the battery charged, plus enough to run the systems of the car.

Esstentially this poses two problems / issues.

1. You are not getting the most bang for your buck when you run your stereo equipment, since the system voltage is not at 14.4, but usually lower unless other accessories of the car are active.

2. This is going to put a lot of strain on the battery and possibly the charging system.

There is one possible remedy to this that I can think of at the moment (besides turning on something in the car to bump the system voltage up), and that is to hardwire a 0-5 volt signal into the ECU with a rheostat in line, to be able to manually adjust the output of the alternator.

Why not just run the 5 volts directly to the ECU? Honda designed this system the way they did for a couple of reasons. The first is to save gas. When the alternator isn't putting out its maximum power, there is less rotational resistance due to the electrical nature of the magnetic fields - this causes the engine to work less, thus saving gas. The second reason in my opinion, would be to save wear and tear on the alternator. If you were to drive around with the alternator output maxed out 24/7, your alternator isn't going to be around for too long.....

If you decide to try this - I am in no way held responsible for what happens if you damage your car or yourself! Take this post as information only - I may attempt the above modification myself, however I don't plan on doing it anytime soon (due to the fact that I need my car all the time at the moment).

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EG SQUAD#22
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D2RecaroApexiOMPSkunk2


#5
H22_Dan..

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I don't no what excact model that is from thou as my eg does not look like that but I posted it for a rough idea bud hopefully someone will help out with how to loose t etc

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EG SQUAD#22
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#6
Beau23

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using a uk ecu in a uk car, p30, il have to check my earths out, my battery is on its way out also myt b a problem
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